![]() Wide open, there is -1.5EV vignetting in the corners, which drops to -0.75EV at f/2, and it is almost entirely gone by f/4. Vignetting is reasonably well controlled for a 20mm f/1.4 lens. ![]() Of course, being a 20mm lens, it will exhibit some, but the two FLD elements control chromatic aberration quite well. At f/4, the difference in sharpness in the corners and the center portion of the lens becomes indistinguishable.Ī testament to the sharpness is that the lens remains incredibly sharp even on high-resolution or APS-C cameras.Ĭhromatic aberration is hard to find here. It is expected for a 20mm lens to lose some sharpness in the corners at f/1.4, but stop it down to f/2.8, and the lens becomes sharp everywhere. Even wide open, the lens is exceptionally sharp in the middle and loses some sharpness in the corners. Sharpness-wise, this is probably one of the sharpest wide-angle lenses on the market, especially in the sub $1000 category. It might not be industry-leading, but it will provide around three stops of stabilization, which is not bad. The optical stabilization is quite a nice feature to have, whether you shoot in low light or not. Out-of-focus areas, or bokeh, look pretty nice, not too distracting, and without any weird bokeh balls. You can correct the vignetting in post-production, but you might find that your photos become pretty noisy in the corners due to the amount of vignetting here. The vignetting is probably the weakest side of this lens, showing up at -2.5EV on the wide end and -2EV on the telephoto end. In some extreme cases, there might be some slight fringing, but that is really rare and quite hard to notice. You probably won’t find any chromatic aberration in your shot, both on your subject and in the background blur. That means landscape photographers can have details in the entire frame.Ĭhromatic aberration is well controlled. Stopping down the lens to f/5.6 significantly improves sharpness in the corners, and the corners are the sharpest at f/11. However, corner sharpness differs depending on the focal length, being sharper in the middle (around 40mm) and losing sharpness when the lens approaches the wide or telephoto end. The center of the image is always sharp, regardless of the focal length. You will find that the lens renders out-of-focus areas quite nicely, and bokeh balls are pretty good. Most photo editing applications can remove it successfully.įlaring and ghosting are reasonably controlled. It is visible mainly in high-contrast scenarios but isn’t beyond repair thanks to the use of FLD and SLD elements. The lens exhibits some chromatic aberration, but for a sub $1000 lens with this focal length, the chromatic aberration is reasonable. Moreover, the OS has an accelerometer to help with panning shots, or you can limit it for panning by using the switch for OS mode 2. Using the USB dock, you can increase the OS strength, however. ![]() The stabilization, in reality, is around three stops, which is excellent. While we are on the topic of sharpness, the addition of optical image stabilization means you’ll get sharper photos at slower shutter speeds. Otherwise, it is about -2EV at 150mm when wide open and about -1.6EV at 600mm when wide open. It does lose a bit more sharpness when used on an APS-C body though, as you would expect since this pushes the effectice focal length up to a massive 900mm!Īt around f/8, you will reduce the vignette to unnoticeable levels. You might notice the difference between the sharpness at 150mm and 600mm if you are pixel peeping, but in reality, it is pretty similar. It loses some sharpness the further you zoom in, but it is not that significant. But, the Sigma 150-600mm doesn’t disappoint in this regard.Īcross the zoom range, the lens is quite sharp, not as sharp as a prime telephoto lens, but quite sharp for a lens with this zoom range.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |